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Greetings from the Land of Northern Lights! (sent 31 Oct 2001)

Hey Everyone!!! Man, oh man, where to begin? Well I guess I could start with: Happy Halloween!! Of course it's quite different here--practically non-existent, actually. But there are some signs of it, since it was introduced to Sweden (by candy and costume makers, I suspect!) about six years ago, and is slowly gaining momentum.

Karen and I are almost two weeks into our travels now. We originally had tickets to fly on Swissair, but then oops!--they ran out of money, nobody wanted to fuel their planes for free (imagine that), and as of ten days before we were set to leave, only 1 out of 4 legs of our journey were guaranteed. No worries, we were actually able to get cheaper tickets on short notice from British Air (and file for a refund with Swissair) and things went smoothly after that...

Well, pretty smoothly--I discovered a new service they offer, where some of your luggage gets held in London until the next flight, meaning Karen and I could tromp around Oslo with a somewhat lighter load while trying to find accomodations, then they deliver the luggage to your hotel when you're all settled. Okay, I think the actual term is "Lost Baggage" but it wound up working in our favor!!!

Oslo was fantastic--we decided to spoil ourselves with a private hotel room Saturday night (rather than a shared room in a hostel) and a fancy meal, justifying both as a celebration of being in Europe and an absolute necessity for recovering from an almost sleepless night of travel. Having had a healthy nap and a good meal, I explored Oslo's downtown night life. I spent a couple hours hanging out with an excellent street musician who made quite a pile of dough playing classical guitar, and chatting with some passing Osloites, or Osloians, Osloers maybe? Ah, whatever--they typically spoke quite good English and spotted me quite quickly as non-Norwegian (shocker).

The next day, we met up with a family friend, Hilde, and explored some of Oslo's history in Viking museums, checked out the Kon Tiki museum (remember good ol' Thor Heyerdahl from the history books?), and the docks. Hilde treated us to some Oslovian cuisine and we finished the day with a visit to the Vigelund Sculpture Park, a beautiful and amazing place populated with hundreds of sculptures of nude human figures in various poses, sometimes solo, sometimes intertwined with others, and usually quite interesting.

We then headed up to Molde, Norway, a town situated on the bank of a fjörd, about 200 miles south of the Polar Circle. We stayed with some of Karen's family friends, and enjoyed unusually nice weather. The scenery was some of the most breathtaking I have ever seen--we awoke each morning to an awesome dawn breaking slowly over the fjord.

The fact that the sun never climbed higher than 15 degrees above the horizon gave the effect of time slowing down--it was as if morning lasted all day, then you realized the sun was slowly sinking to the southwest for another lazy sunset, and dusk seemed to last forever. In another couple of months, Molde will only get about 5 or 6 hours of light a day, much of which is twilight, with the sun ducking behind some of the taller mountains that edged the fjord as it skims the horizon.

In addition to our lucky weather, we also were treated to an amazing show of Northern Lights our first night there, unusual for this early in the season, since it is more commonly seen in mid-winter. Imagine a starry sky shimmering with a faint, blotchy light that flows and jumps towards the apex of the sky. It fades, slows, comes back in a matter of seconds, some parts are denser, forming streaks, other parts are faint and barely noticeable. It was without a doubt one of the more awe-inspiring natural phenomenon I've seen.

We're in Sweden now, see I've got funny characters on my keyboard to prove it: ÖöÄäÅå (just don't ask me to pronounce them). Karen found a fun new way to express excitement: \ö/ hooray!! \ö/

There's much more to tell, but I feel I've gone on quite long enough--suffice it to say that we've seen the sights of Stockholm and Växjö (a small town in Southern Sweden) at a leisurely pace, hanging out with family friends Torbjörn, Lilleba, and Karin for a week now. I'll save more on that for another email.

We've seen and heard of a tremendous amount of sympathy from Scandinavians about Sept 11th--as the street musician in Oslo put it: "The reaction that day was as if it had happened here."

I feel so fortunate to be able to travel like this. On to Denmark tomorrow, on a 9:15 train so we'll have to get up EARLY for a change!! After that, we'll head to Holland, then Belgium and France.

Attached, you'll find a poem I wrote that was inspired by the Norwegian countryside, finding remnants of Nazi occupation among gorgeous nature. (click here to read "The Healing Hillside" in the Poetry section of the website)

I hope this finds you well and I hope you enjoy "travelling vicariously" along with me!! Please let me know if you don't want future updates by replying to this email with the phrase "you suck" in the subject line.

Love & Laughter--
--Scott.

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